A day full of history

It was time to get to know the old Dublin and have a sight into the historical background. On one hand I was a bit sad that I didn’t read these Edward Rutherfurd’s books before coming, but on the other hand, I will be pretty more educated when I go back and start to read them. I am sure that I am able to enjoy them more when I have more connections with the real Irish history and it all makes more sense to me.

4We started the day from the Dublin Castle, where we visited the Chester Beatty Library which is situated in the castle building. It’s a collection of manuscripts, books, and miniatures that belonged to the mining magnate sir Chester Beatty and is now displayed a free exhibition.  You can find items from almost all the countries in the world and they are exposed as Wester collections, East Asian collections, and Islamic collections.

Then we headed out to see the two churches that are both situated quite near there. Despite Ireland being a Catholic country, these churches were both protestant churches. And for a catholic country, it’s surprising that they have used their empty churches in very curious ways like using them as night clubs, pubs, and tourism information centres, which is a nice way to keep them as a part of a modern society.

We also entered the Christ Church and climbed to the St Michel’s Tower where there was a really nice view on the town, even despite the rainy weather.

The next step was going back to the roots and investigate where did it all start and who were the first to settle down in Ireland. We went to Dublinia to see the Viking times and some Medieval history of Dublin. And guess what, the Viking didn’t come just only from Scandinavia, but also from Estonia, so we could have the same roots. Yes, I knew that already, but it was nice to see it written on the wall and to point it out with pleasure.

Music festival in Merrion Square park

The Festival of Street Performers, which took place in Merrion Square park included a really nice two days full of music of different Irish groups.

1 (1)It was a nice small music festival, even the weather was sunny and warm and no showers at all. So we enjoyed almost all the groups and picked up our favourites. One of them became my real favourite, so I even got their CD.

On the first day we were not clever enough to bring our blanket, but on the second day we took it seriously and laid down on the grass and listened to all the bands and I really felt that the summer had begun.

The best of the day was Gypsy Rebel Rabble – and I have got their album now.

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Interskalactic – a big band with a Jamaican flavour.

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Colours Afrobeat Foundation – Irish afrobeat band, rooted in African music.

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The secret gardens

Dublin, that is called  Baile Átha Cliath in Irish, is a big city.  Of course, it’s the capital of Ireland with population over 500 000 people, but if walking around it doesn’t seem so big at all and if you don’t want to walk around the busy streets it’s possible to escape into several nice parks which are situated so near to each other that you can just walk a bit and there’s the next one. So we did.

_DSC0438We started from Trinity College that has also lovely green areas around the old buildings and the world famous Book of Kells somewhere inside the old Library. I remember pretty well when I learned it at the University, but not so pretty well to talk hours about it. I guess that they turn the page each day, so it’s possible to see different pages when you visit it more than once. Actually, the Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript gospel book, that contains the four gospels of the New Testament and it was created somewhere around 800 AD. Maybe one day I will go and have a look at it, but this time, it was just a plan, that was not put into practice. The name of Kells comes from the Abbey Kells where it was held for centuries, where it remained until 1654 when Oliver Cromwell sent it to Dublin for safekeeping and from the 19th century it has been on the public display.

4This round sculpture is called Sphere Within Sphere and it’s made by an Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. Versions of the sculpture can be seen not only in Trinity college but in different places of the world, including Vatican. Anyway, it seemed a nice background for a photo and as we had our photograph with us for the whole day, it’s not the only marvelous photo that we have got from that day. I didn’t know then that this one might have opened the session for my sculpture photo track because that idea came to me some time later.

5After that we headed to Merrion Square Park, which is a bit wild, you can really walk through the bushes and little, crooked paths under the big and old trees. At least it’s not such kind of a flower garden, but more like a place where young kids would like to play Indians and climb the trees and if you are a bit out of the tree climbing age you would probably want to lie down the grass, watch the clouds and enjoy doing nothing. The sculpture of Oscar Wilde enjoying himself on the big stone is a good example of that nice feeling of doing nothing but still being happy and fully alive and if the sun makes you to shut your eyes for a while,  you are definitely not sleeping, but resting your eyes.

merrion_park_1Although the Irish playwright spent a great deal of his time in England the country of his birth has chosen to honor him with a statue in Merrion Square Park.  As it’s possible to find a lot of proof that the sculptures of Dublin have a lot of nicknames which maybe always don’t sound so very polite, but at the same time quite funny, spiced with a bit of Irish humour, this much loved Irish Writer has also a nickname – nothing less that “The Queer with the Leer”, which sounds a little cruel perhaps, but in spite of that it doesn’t absolutely mean that they don’t love their great writer. They do of course, nevertheless of that name.

merrion_parkMerrion Park is also famous for its summer events, concerts and festivals. So are the other parks in Dublin of course, but I was lucky to take part of one of the Music Festivals there, but I will write a bit more about it in some next post.
I got some quite interesting facts about Merrion Square from a page called “10 things you probably didn’t know about Marrion Park” and I have to say that I really didn’t know them. I got to know that Oscar Wilde, Yeats, and Daniel O’Connell have lived on that street, that Oscar Wilde’s mother used to hold a salon that was visited by Bram Stoker and that about 250 years ago the place looked like a farmland on the edge of the city and it was possible to see as far as the bay. They started to build the Georgian houses to Merrion Street in the 18th century.

_DSC0481After Merrion Square, we walked a bit more and very soon reached the St Stephan’s Green Park. On the corner of the park, there’s a statue to commemorate the Irish Famine(known in Gaelic as An Gorta Mór). These pillars surround a statue of the 18th century father of Irish republican, Theodore Wolfe Tone and although it represents one of the darkest periods of Irish history the Dubliners have given it a relevant nickname and call it the Tone-Henge (look at the shape of the pillars:)) The park was officially open to the public in 1880 and is very near to one of the biggest shopping streets in Dublinst_stevents – the Grafton Street. Just over the street lies one of the most beautiful shopping centres that I have ever seen. It didn’t look like a shopping centre at all, it called to my mind a picture of a resort town musical theatre or some other place where people walk around with big hats decorated with bows and feathers. I was surprised to hear that it wasn’t built somewhere at the beginning of the last century but in the middle of the eighties, not a very romantic time by my mind. When I looked up some information about the shopping centre I got to know that it was built instead of a marketplace that had really wonderful name Dandelion Market, which used to be a place with stalls with all kind of punk stuff, like badges, clothes and posters and where U2 used to have several gigs. What a pity that I didn’t have a chance to see it in these days.

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St Stephan’s Park was quite a different story – gorgeous views, large well maintained green lawn, flower beds and ponds with swans swimming around and therefore it looked like a place where to make nice photos and just walk around slowly, happily and proudly.

7It gave a bit the same feeling as our Promenade in Haapsalu, especially when to think about it’s beginning with all these well-dressed people promenading around and showing off themselves. So we walked there a bit, watched the people who had come out to spend their day in the green and the birds and children who were feeding them and headed out of the park. In every park there are signs what is prohibited in the park and one of these things was playing ball. That didn’t stop too not-yet-grown-up young men playing ball and worse, trying to swing with the tree top. It was something that probably every country boy has tried somewhere at the age of ten somewhere in his nearby woods, but it was definitely not the perfect thing for 25-year olds to do in the public park. Fortunately, they didn’t break the tree.

13Our park tour ended in a small and niceIveagh Gardens, which was the favourite of Sean, because of being a real secret garden in his childhood. That Park was established in 1863 by Benjamin Guinness, the 3rd Earl of Iveagh, the grandson of the Arthur Guinness,  who started to brew the Guinness beer and became the richest man in Ireland of his times.

_DSC0536_crop (2)The Park was really a jewel and even the Internet says that it’s the least known parks in Dublin. It has retained its style being between of French formal and English Landscape styles and therefore looking just as a place where to come to be on your own and think your secret thoughts. Unfortunately half of the park was closed because of the oncoming Festival, but it was nice to walk around in Rose Garden, it even didn’t matter that the season of blooming had come to an end, to discover all these little fountains, pools, paths under the old big trees and nice statues hidden underneath them.

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So after every time you feel tired or want to get away from the rush and traffic, you can find a small secret garden just around the corner and it seemed that a lot of people, not only the tourists had found that to be a good idea and were spending their time just enjoying the green grass, the sun and fresh air with their lunch box, children, dogs, or friends.

I really want to go back to all of these parks and take my time to capture the feeling, this time with my book and lunchbox and probably have to pick one of these sunny days that are not so rare as I was afraid of.

 

Ha’penny Bridge

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This one is hanging on my living room wall. We haven’t met yet, but now when we have shared the living room for about a year I am quite sure that when we really meet, and this will take place the next week already, we will recognize each other pretty well.

The Ha’penny Bridge, known later for a time as the Penny Ha’penny Bridge, and officially the Liffey Bridge, is a pedestrian bridge built in 1816 over the River Liffey in Dublin, Ireland. That’s what Wikipedia tells about that. It also tells that it’s 43 m long.

I also chose my airport book, a month ago when I was travelling to Malta again just because of the annotation on the back cover – Christine Rose is crossing the  Ha’penny Bridge in Dublin late one night when she sees a stranger 🙂 ok, I know exactly that I am not going to look for any stranger on  Ha’penny Bridge but the name of the book “How to Fall in Love” somehow spoke to me, not to mention the Bridge that has hung on my wall for a year. The questions that begin with “How to ..” have been my topic for the past years and although I haven’t written them down anywhere, what of course could have been a great idea, I have struggled with them in my mind quite a lot and not always figured out the right answers. But nobody is perfect, but I am pretty close as my fridge magnet tells me every day and what’s a part of my personal positive thinking, even if it sounds too self-centered.  So the significant words  “Ha’penny Bridge” and “How to …” made me choose it and the proverb that suggests never to judge the book by it’s cover was a bit useless this time, because it was a fun reading for my Malta week and helped me to mix my responsibilities with my desire for relaxing. And it helped me to pass the time and to get nearer to my real  Ha’penny Bridge experience.