You cannot avoid whiskey in Ireland

1-IMG_7461_1A trip to whiskey factory, that was meant to be a year before, was carried out now. I guess it was one of the rainiest weathers and so we had to pick something that will take us indoors. In that place, you again have to take a guided tour and at the end of the tour, when it’s possible to taste different whiskeys, you could get a Jameson Irish WhiskeyTasting Certificate, which I did of course 🙂

whiskeyCongratulations! You toured, you tasted, and now you can tell the world. Thanks for visiting the home of Jameson and toasting over 230 years of history. Enjoy your Jameson Irish WhiskeyTasting Certificate. And remember bragging is optional.

That’s what was the text that came with e-mail and the Certificate. I must say that the Whiskey Tour was much better than I expected and we enjoyed it a lot, despite the rain and the raincoats that we had to wear all through the tour because we had to walk around on the premises and move from house to house.

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You never get too much of it

During summer 2015, I was lucky to travel around a bit. Some places I visited had been on my way before, some places had just been on my list, which is still really long and I hope that it will never get short.

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I still haven’t been in Cork, but I have been in lots of places around Cork. This time, I spent a day at marvellous Blarney Castle with all these beautiful gardens and walked all these mysterious paths and hidden grounds around it. It was a bit like a fairy world and I am pretty sure that if somewhere is the place where they live, then one of those has to be the Blarney Castle.

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Of course, I couldn’t miss kissing the famous Blarney stone, but I still cannot say if it has made me talk more or not. Maybe you have to be Irish for that. Or maybe I just don’t want to admit that I have started to talk more than usual.

 

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But even if you don’t want to kiss the stone or the procedure makes you a bit dizzy, I will definitely suggest you climb up there and have that gorgeous view of the green Emerald Island that is spread beneath and could be enjoyed as far as your eye reaches.

 

And here are some places which don’t exist in this world 🙂

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The trouble with Irish names

I thought that I can speak English without big problems, at least understand it quite well. Yes, that was before I went to Dublin and started to be a part of a big, loud, joyful and continuously talking Irish Family. It’s not just their accent, that I have already started to figure out, it’s more because they are always speaking about someone who met someone who had talked to someone whose granny had been in some unpronounceable place with someone who she met when she was travelling from one unpronounceable place to another, where she met her twelve cousins, whose names don’t make any sense at all, who are now living in several other unpronounceable places with their wives and children whose names are also not quite understandable for me. It doesn’t help too much if you look these place names up on the map, because even if you could remember their pronunciation, you never find them because they are written totally differently and without any sense.

That’s why I like to look up all these pronunciations and names and read the stories behind them. The best illustration for that is Lee Mack talking about Irish names.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcLOKQOpj7U

And now please tell me once more if you write your name Niamh, why do you tell that you are Niiv and if you really are, why don’t you write just one v into your name. 

Until I don’t get it I keep reading one of my favourite web-pages about the names and their stories IRISH BABY NAMES.

 

Our neighbourhood

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When I want to go to the main street, to the shops, to the Spire or where ever I need to go, I have to pass the Garden of Remembrance, which is situated at Parnell Square. That nice little park is dedicated to all those who have given their lives for Irish Freedom.

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At the very end, you can see the sculpture which is called “The Children of Lir“. There’s a beautiful legend connected with that statue – about the children of King Lir who were turned into swans. As in all fairy tales and legends, there was again one Evil Queen, in this one, she was from the race of Druids, who had to become a step-mother for four little ones – Finola, Aodh, Fiarce and Conn. And when she was tired of pretending to be nice, she just turned the children into beautiful swans, who could still speak with human voices and please the people who came to the lake to listen to their songs. But the Evil Queen was turned into a bat and had to stay like that forever.

I also looked up the pronunciation of the Irish names of the children, you never know it without checking 🙂 and even then you’ll find several ways how to do that.

The story itself could be read from here – Children of Lir.

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At Parnell square, I also have to pass the Abbey Presbyterian Church, but till now I have just passed, but never looked inside. It seems that they have been renovating it a bit, but it never seems like working.

But I like how it looks  – a nice Gothic building with tall narrow spires. It has been also called as Findlater’s church after a Dublin merchant who paid for the construction of the building.

Atlantic Tides

2-IMG_6443I remember that in my 5th grade English student book there was a topic about tides – a long and boring story, mostly because of all the difficult expressions we had to underline and learn by heart. Just to refresh my memory I took down my old student book from the shelf (yes, I still have it) and looked up what it was about.

“Long ago people living near the coast of the Atlantic Ocean noticed that the level of the sea rose and fell twice every day. They noticed that this didn’t always happen at the same time, at the same hour, but that it took place regularly. People did not understand the cause of this rising and falling. But they noticed that there was some connection between the moon and the waters of the ocean. Today we know that the water of the sea is always moving in or out along the shores.”

1-IMG_6442When learning it, I was probably like the ones who had lived long ago and didn’t quite understand how it all worked. Especially because we, living here at the Baltic sea, never had any tides and the water of the sea stood quite at the same place almost all year round, without very little exceptions and so it was quite hard to picture the tides. Later of course, when reading more literature, I got to know about it some more and in 2010, when visiting England and Wales, I was happy to recognize it, when seeing  the boats and yachts standing on the plain sand and I really thought about my old school book again.

But this time, we spent three marvellous days in Duncannon, just at the seaside, in a nice summer house and I was able to see all that with my own eyes. We arrived in the afternoon, which was probably one of the three lovely days during the summer, and the beach was full of people enjoying the nice weather. Just to mention – the sea was exactly where it had to be – a nice sandy beach, not very wide, but quite enough and the sea, standing still, not moving anywhere. What was totally different from any other beach I have ever seen, were the cars, parked everywhere on the sand, some of them almost in the water.

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It seemed that only I was surprised about that because all the others were spending their time besides their cars, using them as lunch tables and playing ball over them. The ice-cream car was parked with its engine roaring over the beach, but probably it was just because of keeping the fridge working and the ice cream cold. We spent some time walking around and ended our day in the local pub, had some ciders and dinner and arrived at our nice summer house.

Our house had a small garden just looking at the sea and in the morning when I went out, the sea was gone, and it means it was totally gone, no water, just kilometers of wet sand.

1-IMG_6444We spent a nice day on the beach, found a really nice corner, where the cars were not allowed to park and enjoyed the warm day. Somewhere near 2 o’clock the water started to come back little by little. The life guards were busy to get the people back to the sea shore, because a lot of them, included myself, were walking on the wet sand that had been the bottom of the sea just a day before. And then the sea came back, just during about two hours. That was really amazing and unbelievable.

So now I have seen how it really works, not just from the books 🙂

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1-IMG_6469In the evening, the local musicians were performing at the pub and everybody was singing. It’s not possible to describe how much I liked it. For the first time in my life I saw people play Spoons, actually, I didn’t even know about that kind of instrument before. So besides being just great and fantastic and really full of enjoyment, it was also an educative weekend and I love Duncannon and want to come back the next year. And I am quite sure that I will. The next time it would be interesting to wonder around a bit more and discover maybe some neighbourhood as well.

 

15 km walk on the Cliffs of Howth

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Howth is magic, it’s true – just as their web page says. We took a short ride from Dublin by train and after a half of an hour or a bit more we reached a magnificent small seashore village Howth. At first, we were a bit afraid of the weather, because just when we reached it started to rain, but we spent this part in a cafe and it passed quite quickly.

IMG_6175I didn’t know too much about Howth before – just knew that it’s one of the well-known seaside villages near Dublin, where it is possible to hike on the cliffs and buy fresh fish from the little shops on the pier. On that day the village was quiet, but the people who were spending their time there were absolutely aware that they are on holiday and in spite of the cool and windy weather everybody was wearing their summer clothes and outfacing the cold. I have to say that I was not so brave and during the first hour I couldn’t stop thinking about my raincoat that I had left.

IMG_6201The internet describes Hawth as a small and bustling fishing village which is popular among the tourists and locals and After walking through the small town or village you will soon reach the road that goes above the sea and after some time you will reach the sign that explains the different routes. You can pick from four different routes, which are called loops and they all actually start from the railway station, The Cliff Path Loop is 6 km long and is described as easy, the Tramline Loop is 7 km and also classifies as easy, the Black Linn Loop is a km longer and described as moderate and the last one Bog of the Frogs is 10 (but according to some pages 15) km long and marked as hard.

IMG_6227We took the last one because we both like walking and really wanted to spend the whole day outdoors. Almost the whole hiking path was on the clifftops and the landmarks that we passed are called Nose of Howth, which was the beginning of our hike with stunning views of the Lambay Island and Baily Lighthouse beneath. It took us about 3-4 hours to take the whole tour and during this time the weather changed from the threatening autumn to the mild summer day and the views beneath  us were marvellous and picturesque.

IMG_6241Especially nice were all these secret beaches and it was almost impossible to understand where were the tracks that reached them, but as we saw some people enjoying their time there, it was definitely possible to do it. The end of the track went over the golf ground, passed some really nice country houses and ended in the forest which was quite like a jungle and lead us back to the village at last.

IMG_6213This time, we didn’t find out how to get to these lovely little beaches beneath the cliffs because we just wanted to walk through the whole Loop, take photos and enjoy walking. Maybe some next time it will be a good idea to take your picnic basket with some snacks and wine with you and enjoy the beaches beneath the cliffs. In this case, of course, it’s wiser to take the shorter Loop.

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We ended our day on the pier of course and had a look into every single little fish shop. The timing was not the best because it was the late afternoon and everybody knows that the best time to get fresh fish is at the early hours of the day, but anyway, we got some monk fish and for me it was the first time in my entire life to eat monk fish.

IMG_6296After that, we couldn’t help but had to wonder around all these nice small seafood restaurants which were still quite empty, because it was not the real dinner time. but we found a really good offer and enjoyed our fish plate in a cosy little restaurant and we really couldn’t expect the better end of the day.

Back at home, we put our monk fish into the fridge to wait for the next evening, because after that huge fish plate and a bottle of white crispy wine we were too full to start to cook again. and I don’t have to say how tasty it was. I looked it up the dictionary and I know now the name in Estonian too, but I really had not eaten it before. Hopefully, I will eat it again quite soon, if not before, then the next summer.

 

Meeting Titanic

We started our day at the perfect time for having a brunch at Bunnyconnellan Restaurant in Myrtleville, not far from Crosshaven.

30It was located on the top of the cliff, overlooking the Atlantic’s and the views were breathtaking. It’s a very popular place among the locals, especially for weddings, but not only. It’s a perfect place to start your day or to come over and chat with your friends at the weekend with a nice drink and delicious food.
The name of the restaurant was put together from the names of the women who started it and it’s known as “Bunny’s” among the local people. And it is open all year around.

Inside it looked like a cosy pub or a bar and the outside terrace was large, with big tables and nice corners where you can be quite on your own and don’t have to listen to the other peoples talk. But if you are having a big party, then you have a lot of space to enjoy the company of your friends, mixed with the fresh smell of the sea breeze, and the music of the waves just beside you.

I would like to come back in the evening because I have always liked the mystery of the dark sea when you can just hear it. Maybe the next year I will be lucky enough to come back and have a late dinner right here above the Atlantic Ocean.

This time, I was the one who had to make a decision and pick the next place – The Whiskey Factory or Cobh Heritage Centre. I didn’t have to think too long because I know that I am not too much into all kinds of producing processing and so I excluded the Whiskey Factory. Maybe some next time, why not. So we headed to Cobh – the town with three names.

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Cobh Heritage Centre is situated in an old railway station. and it’s dedicated to the mass emigration during 18th and 19th century and to Great Famine 1845-1852 when the whole Ireland was starving and what became the reason for the mass emigration.

IMG_6089It is said that between 1845 – 1950 over 6 million people have emigrated from Ireland and over 2,5 million of them have started from Cobh or Queenstown. So this port plays an important part of the immigration history.

Besides that a lot of big cruise trips, Titanic among them have stopped here and the port was also used for deporting criminals to Australia.

As it has been a spot for leaving Ireland forever, it now offers the genealogical research for your Irish ancestors. It is possible to order a session and get to know how to read the old records and find your Irish roots.

IMG_6084At the entrance stands the statue of Annie Moore and her two brothers.
Annie Moore is considered to be the first person whose name was written down on Ellis Island in the United States after coming down from the ship.

She started from Cobh harbour on 1st of January in 1892 and the whole journey took 12 days.

The similar statue stands also on Ellis Island as a symbol for all the Irish people who have emigrated using the same way.

People leaving their homeland forever – quite lifelike sculptures.

I had never heard anything about the Irish photographer Frank Browne, who was the most well-known Irish photographer during the first half of the 20th century.  But in Cobh Heritage centre I got to know a lot about him and his unbelievable trip on Titanic.
IMG_6095Frank Browne started his journey from London by a train called “Titanic Special” which was taking the passengers from London to Southampton port to board Titanic, The queen of the Ocean.

He had a first class ticket from Southampton to Cobh, where the ship had it last stop to take on board some more passengers. He was there to take photos only, but on his way from Southampton to Cobh, he made friends with a wealthy American family who offered him a first class ticket to America. That sounds already as the beginning of the Titanic movie.

But probably Frank had its own Guardian Angel looking down at him because when he telegraphed about that unbelievable opportunity to his uncle, bishop Robert Browne, he got a very strict answer – “Get off the ship” – and that’s what he did, in Cobh, where he was supposed to get off. This telegram probably didn’t make him too happy when he got it, but it saved his life. His photos are the only evidence that has remained from the Queen of all the Ships that didn’t make a single voyage.

And it’s not all about Titanic for that day. When we left the Heritage Centre we couldn’t pass it.
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… and we couldn’t stop thinking about it.
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Around Cork

 

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It’s my first trip out of Dublin and it happens because someone’s sister lives near Cork 🙂 At first about three hours by car and here we are, in a nice house in the middle of the fields in a place called Crosshaven. And we are going to stay here for three days.

 

1-1The first place we visit is a small town Kinsale which has a fort which is called the Charles Fort, a historical port and a lot of nice colourful picturesque houses. It is located about 25 km-s south of Cork and sits at the mouth of the river Bandon with only a bit more than 2000 people. But I believe that in a summer time they have lots of tourists wandering around and enjoying the atmosphere of the town.

They have a big yacht port as well and a nice promenade to walk and enjoy the yachts beside you.

Here is a collection of my favourite houses in Kinsale:

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And the tiny Hat Shop with lots of beauties 🙂

And a tiny Chocolate Shop with handmade chocolate, yummie …

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And something that reminded me Haapsalu, unfortunately, we didn’t see the Hotel itself

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And some good advice here and there, why not 🙂

On our way back we stopped and counted the Irish cows and enjoyed the landscape. I still don’t know how many cows were there, but quite a lot.

The secret gardens

Dublin, that is called  Baile Átha Cliath in Irish, is a big city.  Of course, it’s the capital of Ireland with population over 500 000 people, but if walking around it doesn’t seem so big at all and if you don’t want to walk around the busy streets it’s possible to escape into several nice parks which are situated so near to each other that you can just walk a bit and there’s the next one. So we did.

_DSC0438We started from Trinity College that has also lovely green areas around the old buildings and the world famous Book of Kells somewhere inside the old Library. I remember pretty well when I learned it at the University, but not so pretty well to talk hours about it. I guess that they turn the page each day, so it’s possible to see different pages when you visit it more than once. Actually, the Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript gospel book, that contains the four gospels of the New Testament and it was created somewhere around 800 AD. Maybe one day I will go and have a look at it, but this time, it was just a plan, that was not put into practice. The name of Kells comes from the Abbey Kells where it was held for centuries, where it remained until 1654 when Oliver Cromwell sent it to Dublin for safekeeping and from the 19th century it has been on the public display.

4This round sculpture is called Sphere Within Sphere and it’s made by an Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. Versions of the sculpture can be seen not only in Trinity college but in different places of the world, including Vatican. Anyway, it seemed a nice background for a photo and as we had our photograph with us for the whole day, it’s not the only marvelous photo that we have got from that day. I didn’t know then that this one might have opened the session for my sculpture photo track because that idea came to me some time later.

5After that we headed to Merrion Square Park, which is a bit wild, you can really walk through the bushes and little, crooked paths under the big and old trees. At least it’s not such kind of a flower garden, but more like a place where young kids would like to play Indians and climb the trees and if you are a bit out of the tree climbing age you would probably want to lie down the grass, watch the clouds and enjoy doing nothing. The sculpture of Oscar Wilde enjoying himself on the big stone is a good example of that nice feeling of doing nothing but still being happy and fully alive and if the sun makes you to shut your eyes for a while,  you are definitely not sleeping, but resting your eyes.

merrion_park_1Although the Irish playwright spent a great deal of his time in England the country of his birth has chosen to honor him with a statue in Merrion Square Park.  As it’s possible to find a lot of proof that the sculptures of Dublin have a lot of nicknames which maybe always don’t sound so very polite, but at the same time quite funny, spiced with a bit of Irish humour, this much loved Irish Writer has also a nickname – nothing less that “The Queer with the Leer”, which sounds a little cruel perhaps, but in spite of that it doesn’t absolutely mean that they don’t love their great writer. They do of course, nevertheless of that name.

merrion_parkMerrion Park is also famous for its summer events, concerts and festivals. So are the other parks in Dublin of course, but I was lucky to take part of one of the Music Festivals there, but I will write a bit more about it in some next post.
I got some quite interesting facts about Merrion Square from a page called “10 things you probably didn’t know about Marrion Park” and I have to say that I really didn’t know them. I got to know that Oscar Wilde, Yeats, and Daniel O’Connell have lived on that street, that Oscar Wilde’s mother used to hold a salon that was visited by Bram Stoker and that about 250 years ago the place looked like a farmland on the edge of the city and it was possible to see as far as the bay. They started to build the Georgian houses to Merrion Street in the 18th century.

_DSC0481After Merrion Square, we walked a bit more and very soon reached the St Stephan’s Green Park. On the corner of the park, there’s a statue to commemorate the Irish Famine(known in Gaelic as An Gorta Mór). These pillars surround a statue of the 18th century father of Irish republican, Theodore Wolfe Tone and although it represents one of the darkest periods of Irish history the Dubliners have given it a relevant nickname and call it the Tone-Henge (look at the shape of the pillars:)) The park was officially open to the public in 1880 and is very near to one of the biggest shopping streets in Dublinst_stevents – the Grafton Street. Just over the street lies one of the most beautiful shopping centres that I have ever seen. It didn’t look like a shopping centre at all, it called to my mind a picture of a resort town musical theatre or some other place where people walk around with big hats decorated with bows and feathers. I was surprised to hear that it wasn’t built somewhere at the beginning of the last century but in the middle of the eighties, not a very romantic time by my mind. When I looked up some information about the shopping centre I got to know that it was built instead of a marketplace that had really wonderful name Dandelion Market, which used to be a place with stalls with all kind of punk stuff, like badges, clothes and posters and where U2 used to have several gigs. What a pity that I didn’t have a chance to see it in these days.

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St Stephan’s Park was quite a different story – gorgeous views, large well maintained green lawn, flower beds and ponds with swans swimming around and therefore it looked like a place where to make nice photos and just walk around slowly, happily and proudly.

7It gave a bit the same feeling as our Promenade in Haapsalu, especially when to think about it’s beginning with all these well-dressed people promenading around and showing off themselves. So we walked there a bit, watched the people who had come out to spend their day in the green and the birds and children who were feeding them and headed out of the park. In every park there are signs what is prohibited in the park and one of these things was playing ball. That didn’t stop too not-yet-grown-up young men playing ball and worse, trying to swing with the tree top. It was something that probably every country boy has tried somewhere at the age of ten somewhere in his nearby woods, but it was definitely not the perfect thing for 25-year olds to do in the public park. Fortunately, they didn’t break the tree.

13Our park tour ended in a small and niceIveagh Gardens, which was the favourite of Sean, because of being a real secret garden in his childhood. That Park was established in 1863 by Benjamin Guinness, the 3rd Earl of Iveagh, the grandson of the Arthur Guinness,  who started to brew the Guinness beer and became the richest man in Ireland of his times.

_DSC0536_crop (2)The Park was really a jewel and even the Internet says that it’s the least known parks in Dublin. It has retained its style being between of French formal and English Landscape styles and therefore looking just as a place where to come to be on your own and think your secret thoughts. Unfortunately half of the park was closed because of the oncoming Festival, but it was nice to walk around in Rose Garden, it even didn’t matter that the season of blooming had come to an end, to discover all these little fountains, pools, paths under the old big trees and nice statues hidden underneath them.

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So after every time you feel tired or want to get away from the rush and traffic, you can find a small secret garden just around the corner and it seemed that a lot of people, not only the tourists had found that to be a good idea and were spending their time just enjoying the green grass, the sun and fresh air with their lunch box, children, dogs, or friends.

I really want to go back to all of these parks and take my time to capture the feeling, this time with my book and lunchbox and probably have to pick one of these sunny days that are not so rare as I was afraid of.